Reference Charts and Other Educational Materials
Our "Special Needs" Seed DeliverySafer, more effective mosquito protection
PHOTOGRAPHING BIRDS FROM YOUR HOUSE
Does birdseed cause that bare spot under feeders?
Wild Birds Depend on Humans
Birdbaths are a winter necessity in Texas
Buying birdseed--what's the difference?
BIRDSCAPING PLANTS
ADDING BUTTERFLIES TO YOUR NORTH TEXAS YARD
BINOCULAR BASICS
WHAT TO DO WITH AN INJURED, SICK OR ORPHANED BIRD
SQUIRRELS AND BIRDS TOGETHER
We will deliver seed within a 7 mile radius of the store, for a $5 delivery charge. (Terms are subject to change) There is a minimum purchase of 3 large bags of seed (20/25 lbs). We will deliver birdseed (including suet, mealworms, peanuts and the like). In addition to seed ordered, we can deliver other in-stock items.
Delivery will be on Thursdays, for orders submitted to us by the previous Tuesday, noon.
Payments must be by check or credit card, and will include the delivery charge. If you're in our "Seed Banking" Plan, the purchase can be deducted from your account, too. Coupons and seasonal promotions are not applicable.
Please tell us where, or with whom, to leave the items. Otherwise we will use our best judgment about where to leave them.
Telephone: 940/484-2473 or fax 940/484-9453 at any time.
According to new findings from the U.S. Center for Disease Control (and many others), mosquito-repellants with the toxic chemical Deet should not be used on children; and should not be sprayed directly on anyone's skin. Howard Garrett agrees and says there are non-toxic alternatives. Besides, the Bite Blocker we carry is more effective at protecting you and your kids from mosquitoes.
Ages ago, birds did just fine. Now though, they look to us for a little help.
Food.
It is essential that their food be almost as fresh as what's growing naturally or they will look elsewhere. A variety of feeder types attracts the widest variety of birds too.
Water.
Birds need water! Preliminary study results show that urban areas with lots of swimming pools, fishponds, sprinklers and plenty of yards with birdbaths are often more attractive to birds than the surrounding rural land.
Safe nesting places.
The more tall vegetation you have, the better your chances of attracting nest-building birds. Many birds in north Texas, however, make homes in old holes in trees. In the absence of old trees, birdhouses do just fine.
Means to raise little birds.
Birds need plenty of nest-building material. Almost anything will be used! A typical manicured lawn is no help at all - many birds will choose to go elsewhere. That's also true if pesticides are used liberally. After all, pesticides kill the insects that birds feed to nestlings.
A great many birds (like cardinals, woodpeckers and chickadees) stay in north Texas all winter long. For many others (like goldfinches and cedar waxwings) this is where they migrate to. Nevertheless, the majority of immature birds succumb to our comparatively mild winter weather. Mostly, they starve, dehydrate or are predated by things like hawks. Without a doubt, our birds need your help to make it through a Texas winter.
Birds, like all animals, need water the whole year-round. Almost all birds need water every single day, whether it is May or December. Since they have to be light enough to fly (to get food etc.) they can not just store up water in fat cells like many mammals. So getting water is even more crucial as the weather gets cooler.
Not just for drinking! Bathing helps preserve body heat, which they do by "fluffing up" their feathers and trapping tiny pockets of air. They can not do this with dirty feathers, so they have to bathe frequently in cool weather. Offering water in cool weather may actually be more important to birds than offering it in the summer. Birds do not mind if the water is cold--their baths normally just take a second or two anyway.
Occasionally in the Denton area, the water in a birdbath freezes solid. No problem! By the end of the day, it usually unfreezes. Or you can do as I do--just pour some hot water into it. Denton's Wild Bird Center even has reliable, solar fountains for cloudless days in any season.
Just don't assume that all the birds fly off to warmer climates for the winter. The majority stay right here, or migrate to Texas. Take care of them by giving them a reliable water source during the winter, and they'llll be grateful all year long--maybe by making your yard their home.
Many of our customers have asked, "Just exactly what is the difference between Wild Bird Center seed and the supermarket and garden-center variety of birdseed?" The biggest difference is value!
"Bargain" seed? Buyer beware!
Songbirds don't eat the main ingredients found in the majority of bargain-seed blends. A simple way to protect yourself is to check the bag's list of ingredients. The ingredients should be listed in the order that they contribute to the total weight of the bag. Usually the first or second ingredient in a bargain brand is milo. The third or fourth is the ambiguous ingredient called mixed grains. Most birds do not eat milo or mixed grains! These filler seeds will be knocked to the ground via a method called "bill sweeping". This stuff will sit for months, until it sprouts. When desirable seed falls to the ground, it is consumed by ground-feeding birds, such as doves, juncos, and sparrows.
Seed condition
The condition of the seed you purchase is also important. Most bargain-brand seeds are sprayed with oil to keep the dust down and to make them shiny and attractive to people (not birds). Seed can also vary in quality--from fresh to stale to the sweepings off the mill floor. Mill owners call this "reclaiming". We call it unfit for avian consumption.
What do your birds really eat?
Songbirds, including chickadees, wrens, titmice, etc., love a variety of sunflower, safflower, and peanuts, avoiding small grains. Ground-feeding birds, such as doves, juncos, and sparrows, prefer white proso millet and usually do not eat milo or mixed grains.
You can count on us to keep you well informed and supplied with the best birdseed. Wild Bird Centers and Wild Bird Crossings, in conjunction with our seed suppliers, work to provide fresh, 99%-clean seed for the health and enjoyment of your backyard birds.
Are you having a tough time deciding what to plant in your gardens? The following is a list of plants that you may consider choosing from in order to attract wild birds to your surroundings.
Cedar Elm (A large shade tree, with irregular, fissured bark that birds can cling to easily)
Juniper / Cedar (An evergreen shrub or tree that birds seek shelter in, and also use for nesting material)
Soap Berry (A short tree with small berries that most birds love. Wonderful fall color)
Persimmon (Two varieties of small trees, both with fruit/berries that drive birds wild)
Redbud (A small, durable ornamental tree with dark pink blossoms)
Mexican Plum (A small, shade-loving tree with white flowers and very small plums that birds love)
Eve's Necklace (A small, evergreen tree with seed pods that birds feast on)
Yaupon Holly (A large, tough, evergreen shrub. The deciduous variety shows colorful berries all winter.)
Mexican Buckeye (A large shrub with flowers that look like a redbud)
Wax Myrtle (A large, evergreen shrub. Birds are all over the small, blue berries)
A selection of American Holly (Many are derived from this evergreen species: burford, marynell, stephens are a few)
All native grasses (Particularly bluestem, muhlygrass, indiangrass, switchgrass, grama, sea oats and lovegrass)
Beautyberry (A bushy, tall, shade-loving shrub with lots of purple berries)
Viburnum (A group of large shrubs that is prized by birds; small berries, white flowers and great fall color)
Kidneywood (A tall, tough shrub with white blooms)
Sumac (Includes several short, colorful plants that most birds prefer: "prairie flameleaf" is my favorite here)
Mistflower (A heat-loving light blue flower, best planted in a large mass)
Rudbeckia / Black-eyed Susan (A yellow, daisy-like flower that is a haven for ground-feeding birds)
Salvia / Sage (A large, diverse group of heat-loving plants that Texas birds easily recognize)
Lantana (A tough, heat-loving flower, excellent nectar producer: many colors)
Ironweed (A very durable, perennial flower with lilac colored spikes. Best planted in masses)
Texas Primrose / Calylophus (Many yellow flowers: very drought-resistant)
Penstemmon (Varieties are coral/red, and does well in full sun. Excellent nectar producer)
Maximilian Sunflower (Sunflowers are big a food source for most birds; this one does quite well in North Texas)
Coral Honeysuckle (A great-smelling vine, that is also an excellent food source; not invasive)
WHEN A BIRD HITS A WINDOW:
Unless it is clearly dead, the best thing to do is nothing. Frequently, birds fly into windows, and are temporarily stunned by the impact. In an hour or two (or less) it may come to its senses and fly away. In the meantime, keep it warm (if it is cold out) and protect it from any opportunistic predators (such as cats).
There is absolutely no truth to the myth that birds "smell" humans and shun injured birds you touch, so pick it up and move it if necessary.
Most birds will learn to avoid windows, especially if you apply some sort of decal or sticker to the pane. Research shows that placing a feeder directly on, or in front of, a window is safe - the most danger is when a feeder is about 3 or 4 feet away from a window. Wherever you put a feeder, make sure birds can't see all the way through your house (out another window) which entices them to try a shortcut.
WHEN YOU SEE A BIRD THAT HAS FALLEN OUT OF A NEST:
Again, the best thing is probably to do nothing but let nature take its course. Baby birds rarely "fall" out of nests. The mother, who thinks it's time for the baby to learn to fly, usually pushes them out. Chances are, if you see a baby bird on the ground, its mother is somewhere near - watching carefully. Often, a baby bird will walk around, out of the nest, and still be several days away from its first flight.
If you have to move it, to keep it away from predators or get it out of traffic, do so gently. But be sure to put it back down in the same area, so the mother can keep an eye on it, and teach it things like how to find food.
WHEN YOU SEE A BANDED BIRD:
If it flies away, do nothing but wish it well on its voyage. But if it stays around, it is probably sick, injured, lost or all three. Report it to the Bird Banding Laboratory at the Patuxent Wildlife Center, 800/327-2263 or www.pwrc.usgs.gov . They will take the report and pass it on to the bird's bander, usually some sort of ornithologist or researcher.
WHEN A BIRD IS CLEARLY SICK:
Wild birds have protective behaviors to hide symptoms of disease until they are extremely ill. That is because wilds birds that don't have a normal appearance will be preyed on. So if a bird that looks sick to you, it is really sick.
Carefully pick up the sick or injured bird and put it in a small cardboard box or plastic container that is large enough for it to stand up in or move around a bit. (Have the container ready before you pick it up to lessen stress) Pad any hard edges, and cover the container loosely with a towel, leaving a small gap for good air circulation. Place the box in a warm, very quiet area; either inside your home or on a covered patio. Do not offer the bird food or water unless told to by someone who knows. Keep other animals like curious cats and dogs away, and avoid peeking at or disturbing the bird. This just increases the stress on an already-sick bird.
Warmth, quiet and a lack of stress are what you should provide. Offer a little food, like soft-soaked pet food, but don't force the bird to eat. Call a wildlife sanctuary, a veterinarian who cares for wild animals or a wildlife rehabilitation center for further instructions. One possibility is to call DFW Wildlife at 972/234-9453, or to find a more convenient wildlife rehabilitator, look on the web at www.TC.umn.edu/~devo0028
You can, however, appeal to north Texas butterflies if you know what they like. By planning and planting now, you will greatly improve your odds.
The life of a butterfly is a perpetual gamble. In a period of just a week or two, a female butterfly can lay hundreds of eggs. Yet only a few of them will become adult butterflies. Knowing the needs and dangers that a butterfly faces as it grows up, including their predators and defenses, will increase your chances of a butterfly show in your yard.
Butterflies-to-be are most vulnerable to predators and disease during the caterpillar (larval) stage in the early spring. During this time they need what are called "host plants".
Sometimes, the host plant the caterpillar uses as a food source and a birthing spot is considered a "weed", and is destroyed by unknowing gardeners. Caterpillars must use specific host plants, and the destruction of these plants directly affects the number of butterflies. Indiscriminate use of pesticides is also responsible for the demise of many eggs, caterpillars and butterflies. On average, out of 500 eggs, only five survive the typical backyard living conditions in this area.
This pathetic survival rate can be frustrating to north Texas gardeners who are intent on luring these beauties by planting the host plants necessary for laying eggs and feeding larvae.
Throughout our hot, dry summer (when must butterflies grow up) and into the fall, nectar plants are vital to the sruvival of a butterfly, particularly for migrating butterflies such as monarchs, as they "bulk up" for a long flight. They also need a water source - and they prefer one that is very shallow.
Predators vary. Frogs, toads, lizards and rodents hunt these would-be butterflies as part of nature's cycle of life. Some birds will occasionally swoop down and pick off a caterpillar for lunch or try to snatch a butterfly in flight - though birds are not a big problem. However, the biggest problem by far is humans, and the bug sprays, chemical fertilizers, and weed killers we use - plus our predilection to have big lawns, and to cut vegetation low to the ground, destroying a host plant.
Many butterflies migrate in their search for living quarters. The main attractant to a butterfly searching for a home an abundance of the right kind of plants, to fuel up on nectar, and hide from predators. Texas plays an important role as an "aerial highway" for spring and fall butterfly migrations as they make their way to and from their wintering home. Monarchs are most notable in this respect, but usually every spring we are treated to clouds of migrating Gulf Fritillaries
About 440 species of butterfly have been reported in Texas. Among them are the Zebra, Painted Lady, Question Mark, Viceroy, Pipevine Swallowtail and the one we have all seen - the Monarch.
A list of the "right kinds of plants" for north Texas include mistflower, verbena, lantana, Turk's cap, milkweed, butterfly weed, scarlet sage/salvia, allysum and yarrow. I also recommend passion vine, clover, sunflower and sumac. Most tall, native grasses (like bluestem, switchgrass, muhly, indiangrass etc.) are excellent too. In Texas these plants are best planted in the ground during the spring or fall, and require very little water.
If you are serious about attracting butterflies, nothing should be sprayed on your landscape that is artificial, man-made or poisonous. Caterpillars (which become pupae, which become butterflies) are often confused with more destructive bugs and are squashed or sprayed on sight. For example, a homeowner will kill a green, yellow and black caterpillar on a parsley plant without realizing it would soon become a gorgeous Eastern black swallowtail.
Chunks of roadside or unmaintained lots are often filled with wildflowers and native grasses - a future banquet for butterflies. Spray a pesticide or herbicide, however, and it will become a butterfly wasteland. Systemic pesticides, those that are absorbed into plant tissue, are particularly lethal to caterpillars and mature, egg-laying butterflies alike because they affect pollen and nectar.
Do everything that is recommended and butterflies MIGHT visit your yard. It is still a bit of a gamble, and you should start now. But if you do not give it a genuine try, it is a sure thing that your yard will be as attractive to a butterfly as the fast-lane of Interstate 35.
Almost every birdwatcher uses a pair of binoculars. For identifying birds, and for just plain fun, good binoculars are essential.
There are two basic designs; "porro prism" and "roof prism". The light gathering objective lenses (the ones in the far end) are set farther apart in porro-prism binoculars, than the lenses you look through. In roof-prism binoculars, however, the objective lenses are in line with the "eye lenses".
For years, porro-prism binoculars set the standard, being more rugged and less expensive than roof-prism models. On the other hand, the roof-prism models tend to weigh less, and are more water resistant. They often cost more, though. So which type you prefer is largely a matter of personal preference.
All binoculars are described with two numbers, separated by an "x" . For example 8 x 40. These numbers tend to be mysterious and confusing but are essential to know.
The first number is the magnification or "power". Most birdwatchers use binoculars between 7x and 10x. The higher the number, the closer the object seems. However, any shake or tremor is also magnified. So the 8x is the most popular among birdwatchers.
Also, higher magnification generally means a slight decrease in your ability to see things in low light, and a slight increase in the weight of the binocular.
The second number (40 in the example) is the key to the amount of light transmitted by the binocular to your eyes. (Keep in mind that most birds appear at low-light times of day, and hide in shadows). Divide this number by the first number to find out the size (in millimeters) of the image that the binocular delivers to your eye... 5 in the example. This is also called the "exit pupil". An exit pupil between 4.5 and 7.1 is ideal.
Light transmission is also determined by the type of glass used in the lenses and prisms, and the kind of coatings that have been applied to the lenses. Manufacturers sometimes label an ordinary kind of glass or coating with fancy-sounding names, but the best binoculars in my opinion have "Bak4" glass and are fully "multicoated". This adds to the price of course, but dramatically reduces stray light and increases contrast.
Easily the most important thing you should do before plunking down money for binoculars is to try them out. Look at low light objects, try focusing rapidly, try finding small, moving objects - and judge the weight and how they feel in your hands. Check out the guarantee, and whether the merchant will help you if there is a problem. Remember that "water-resistant" and "waterproof" are not the same things. Birdwatchers may want to get a wide strap for easier carrying. Try several models. If the store you are in does not want you to give them a thorough test, my advice is to shop elsewhere.
You can buy inexpensive binoculars almost anywhere, but you get what you pay for. A quality binocular will cost at least $100. The more features you want, of course, the higher the cost - but try to buy the best you can afford since you will probably have them for a long, long time.
The absolute, undeniable truth is that north Texas' birds and squirrels can live together in harmony. Just remember the key to keeping squirrels away from your birdfeeders; SQUIRRELS WILL ALWAYS GO FOR THE EASIEST FOOD TO GET TO.
There are four steps you can take so birds and squirrels can live together in peace. FIRST, offer the squirrels other food, away from your birdfeeders. Dried corn is very enticing to squirrels, as is a compressed version. As long as it's easy to get to, they will leave your birdfeeders alone.
SECOND, place birdfeeders where squirrels can't easily get to them. Hanging a plain birdfeeder from a branch is just asking for trouble.
THIRD, squirrel-proof birdfeeders. If you have no option but to place a birdfeeder within "squirrel range", use a squirrel-proof feeder (instead of some homemade contraption which usually takes squirrels less than day to figure out). Or add a "baffle" to your current feeder.
FOURTH, feed the birds pure safflower for a while. Most birds (but not all) like fresh safflower. But it's not prized at all by squirrels, so they'll look elsewhere for food.
The squirrels will not just disappear some day, certainly not in our "post oak savannah" (acorns!!) If you give them food that they can get at easily, vandalizing your birdfeeders will be less thrilling for them. So feed the squirrels and birds, then enjoy watching them both.
Photographing birds is a great way to capture moments in time. It's a rapidly-growing, fun hobby. You can do it from inside your home, pretty much on your own schedule. It doesn't require a lot of expensive, complicated gear, either, although as with any hobby you can spend a lot if you want to. Even point-and-shoot cameras can produce good results.
Nothing beats holding equipment in your hands and using it. Here are a few pointers for beginners, however, to start you in the right direction.
Eliminating reflections. Darken the room as much as you can when shooting from inside the house. Also avoid shooting (when using flash) at 90-degrees through a window. 45-degrees is better, but if you can avoid using flash entirely that's best. If your camera takes a lens hood, you can block glare from the sun. Get the camera fairly close to the glass. Don't worry; the auto-focus capability of your camera isn't affected by shooting through clean glass.
Avoid Problems with some Kinds of Glass. The glass in the overwhelming majority of houses is high-quality, and presents no optical problem. Even thermopane windows (double glazed) provide excellent visibility for photography. Storm windows, however, often cause problems due to the distance between the inside glass and the outside window. Tinted windows can also be a problem; affecting the true coloring of the subject. Screens can interfere with clarity; so take them down temporarily and make sure the glass is clean.
Use your house as a "blind". The biggest advantage you have is that you're inside, and a lot less visible to birds. So they can do bird-things without fear of interference from a human or a little noise. A little noise is OK, but avoid loud, vibrating noise or visual motion like a TV.
Bring the bird closer to you. You probably can't get very close to birds, but you don't need a long telephoto lens, either. You can get the same effect by locating a feeder, birdbath or birdhouse close to the window. Avoid putting an "attractant" with 2 to 5 feet of a window. But putting it directly on the window, or further away than 5 ft. minimizes window strikes by birds.
Choosing a Background. Look through the camera's viewfinder. Make sure the background is either far enough away to be out of focus, or it's not a bunch of confusing, brightly-colored things that distract from the bird.
Staying Steady. Even the slightest camera movement can cause blurry shots. If possible, use a tripod to stabilize the camera. Many people also use a self-timer or shutter release to avoid movement when clicking the shutter. You can even brace the camera against the window glass and brace your body against a wall or heavy furniture to stay steady.
Natural Settings. To photograph birds in natural settings, place a branch or flower pot near a feeder or birdbath. Birds will wait on them before eating or bathing.
Yes and no. Birdseed accumulation prevents grass from growing - birdseed by itself does not.
There is a scientific term for a plant's producing a chemical that prevents other plants from growing nearby; allelopathy. In north Texas one of the plants that is allelopathic is the walnut, which produces the chemical juglone that prevents other plants from growing (this is more than you want to know, isn't it?).
Birds eating at feeders simply drop the inedible seed hulls on the ground below, and grass doesn't grow there. So there is a widespread suspicion that the thin, woody hulls of sunflower seeds inhibit plant growth. To be perfectly honest, we thought so too - until we did some research.
Lots of people with better brains and more college degrees than us studied this situation. They found that sunflower hulls do not present a chemical barrier to seed germination and seedling development. Rather, an accumulation of seed hulls can function as a mulch. Sunlight can't easily reach new growth or seeds through the mulch. Also, the empty hulls (as they get mashed into the soil by foot traffic, animals, even a good rain) reduce the amount of real soil available to any plant trying to grow there. Also, the empty hulls take nitrogen from the soil, which all plants need to grow, as they decompose.
We recommend that you clean the empty hulls from beneath feeders about once a week. A simple broom and dustpan works perfectly. I'd also rake the area lightly, dislodging any missed hulls. With no accumulated mulch of empty seed hulls, the area beneath your feeders will do just fine.
As an alternative, you can put a few large stones beneath your feeders, or a patch of gravel. I'd avoid putting ornamental plants directly under feeders however. They're a hindrance to ground-feeding birds like doves, juncos, thrashers and true sparrows.